That morning we visited Noemi one last time to thank her and her family, and to refill our water bottles before leaving. After a group picture and our goodbyes, we got back on the bikes and cycled for quite a while. Since we had started the day without breakfast, we decided to stop properly in the next village, Epizana. There we had banana milkshakes, birthday cake, and a hearty breakfast that gave us enough energy for the long climb ahead. Birthday cake, you’re thinking? It wasn’t any of our birthdays but the birthday of a man at the stall where we had breakfast and they were kind enough to offer each of us a piece.

So after our breakfast we cycled on and it all literally went uphill from there. It was very strenuous but by now I too had finally developed some more muscles. Unfortunately my strength wasn’t the problem but my knees. They were hurting from all the consecutive days that we had to climb quite a lot of altitude since leaving the Altiplano. After the first pass, we descended into a valley accompanied by spectacular views and nature. In the valley we had lunch by a beautiful river before we cycled and it went uphill once again. After mastering the second pass, we found a beautiful secluded spot to camp and it was so serene. It was nice and quiet save for the beautiful songs of different birds and the quiet trickle of the mountain stream which didn’t only up the fengshui of this place but also meant that we could finally properly wash again.

It’s moments like those which I enjoy so much about travelling and nature. That inner calmness that you get. A calmness that brings relaxation, happiness, and appreciation for the beauty of earth, its nature, and its fauna. What a beautiful place to camp!
While Jacques was cooking, I was chilling in Göran’s hammock, and Göran had gone to explore our surroundings, when suddenly an old haggard man showed up. He said that we were camping on his lands and like so many people, he too right out asked us about the price of our bikes. Luckily, Göran quickly returned and took over chatting with the man. He offered him some coca to show our appreciation for letting us stay on his land, I gave him some sweet popped corn (which is actually not the same as popcorn at all, despite the way it sounds), and he went off. That evening we all slept well. Jacques and I in the tent, and Göran happily in his hammock… until it started to rain.