To Machu Picchu and Back

Day 1
We had an early start to catch our bus at 6 AM, which would drop us off at Hydroelectrica after a 6 to 7-hour bus ride through the mountains. From there, we walked along the railway tracks, through the beautiful, lush green jungle and past little stalls here and there, until we finally reached Aguas Calientes. The whole point of this detour was, of course, to avoid the thoroughly overpriced tourist train. The walk was long but pleasant, and by the time we arrived, we were starving. Aguas Calientes is something we usually avoid and dislike: one big tourist-filled, overpriced, unreal town. Everything screams tourism, and it is a bit much.

For dinner, we looked for something that wasn’t extremely overpriced and ended up in a burger place — a small but good-looking tiny stall on the street on the somewhat less touristy side of town. The meat burgers were delicious, juicy (according to the men), and really nicely presented, but the vegetarian one was a bit disappointing flavour-wise as it lacked any flavour whatsoever. At least the nachos with guacamole that we had as a starter made up for it. They were beautifully arranged and absolutely divine.

Day 2
At 5:30 in the morning, we got up, and at 5:55 AM we already stood in line at the ticket office, trying to secure a good time slot for the following day at Machu Picchu. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with a visit to the thermal bath, which was a nice way to soak and relax. We spent more than two hours in the heavenly hot, mineral-rich waters and took dips in the freezing water in between — a bit like you would do in a sauna. Because it was so early still, we initially had the baths all to ourselves.

Later in the morning, along with other people, a Peruvian family arrived: Rosa and Maria, two sisters, and Maria’s daughter and her family. They were very kind, and we chatted nicely with them. On top of that, they shared a fantastic tip with us: instead of eating in the overpriced restaurants, go to the mercado! In our defence, we didn’t know a mercado existed because its entrance, despite being in the centre, is very unassuming and easily overlooked. I can’t help but think that this is intentional so that most tourists end up going to the expensive restaurants instead of having a cheap meal at the market. Anyhow, we had lunch with them there, and what a difference it was indeed: much cheaper, more authentic, tasty, and filling. Perhaps lacking a bit in vegetables though and a bit overdone with the salt — but all in all still a real game changer.

Later, back near our hostel, we stumbled across a small bakery with surprisingly tasty and affordable pastries. We treated ourselves to apple pies and a brownie.
Later, I felt my energy draining more and more. Unfortunately, I had started to feel a bit sick in the morning already, which got progressively worse during the day, and by evening I had a fever.

Day 3
Today was Machu Picchu day! We got up at 5 AM again and started hiking at 5:30 AM. With a bacterial infection and fever, health was not on my side, so the hike was painfully slow. Still, when we finally reached Machu Picchu, all the hardship was instantly forgotten.

The city itself is breathtaking. Stone terraces cascading down the steep mountainsides, the walls fit together with such precision that not even a blade of grass could slip between the stones. Pathways weave through temples, houses, and storage rooms, and from almost every angle, the views open up into a dramatic backdrop of endless green peaks and valleys. The mist that hung in the morning air lifted slowly, revealing the ruins in the soft light of the morning sun.

And then there were the llamas. They wander around the site as if they own it, leisurely grazing between the terraces. Officially, they help keep the grass short. But let’s be honest — I think they are also there for the tourists. They pose almost too perfectly in front of the ruins, and everyone (me included) couldn’t resist taking a photo or two. It gave the whole ancient city a strangely serene and playful atmosphere at the same time. It felt surreal to stand there, knowing the Incas and other older civilizations had built this high city with nothing but stone tools, and to imagine life here centuries ago. Magical is really the only word that comes close.

Sadly, my health kept deteriorating. By the time we hiked back down and headed to the mercado for lunch, I had a high fever again and could barely eat. The rest of the day I spent in bed, finally starting antibiotics as my health got worse and the fever higher.

Day 4
Still weak, we checked if taking the train back from Aguas Calientes to Hydroelectrica was an option. But the prices were outrageously high and, to top it off, the only departure times didn’t fit the schedule of our onward bus. So we had no choice but to hike again through the jungle.

Then came the waiting. Hours of unclear, contradicting information about when the bus would leave — a communication style we had already learned to recognise as “typical Peruvian fashion.” When we finally did depart, we hit the next obstacle: a landslide blocking the road. We waited for an hour until we could pass.

By the time we arrived in Cusco, it was very late at night. We were exhausted, dirty, and I was still sick. Back at the hostel, we fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow. But despite all the chaos, the fever, and the hassle, one thing is clear: seeing Machu Picchu with my own eyes was worth it.