Going Through Hell to Get to Millpu

Today we had to get up early to catch a bus that would take us to Millpu, a unique natural wonder (you’ll soon see why). The journey took about three and a half hours through winding mountain roads, and I was already feeling carsick before we even left the main highway. The last 30 minutes on a bumpy dirt road didn’t make things any easier.

Once we arrived, a gentle 30-minute hike led us to Millpu, also known as Aguas Turquesas. This magical place is fed by water flowing from a spring located eight meters beneath a large rock considered sacred by the locals. Rich in minerals, the water runs down through a gorge lined with limestone, forming a series of dazzling natural pools. Their bright turquoise color comes from the way the minerals interact with the rock and reflect the sky above.

It was a breathtaking sight—beautiful and serene, and easy to understand why the locals view it as sacred. From the spring at the mountain pass, the water was so clear, oxygen-rich, and full of minerals that plants could grow underwater, creating an almost otherworldly scene. As it continued downhill, it cascaded through several layers of waterfalls before finally forming the iconic turquoise pools.

Despite the nightmare of a bus ride, the beauty of Millpu made it completely worth it. We all agreed it was something truly special. For lunch, we enjoyed a delicious home-cooked Nasi Goreng prepared by Chef Jacques.

Back near the parking area, where small restaurants were set up, we met two wonderful English travelers (Sarah and Hugh) and a Dutch couple (Ingrid and Branko). They were incredibly kind and easy to talk to. We admired their adventurous spirit as they had been traveling through South America for several years in specially adapted vehicles. (And if you’re reading this: forgive me for calling them “vehicles”. I know the word doesn’t do justice to what you’ve created. I feel like “campervan” just doesn’t capture it either!). Far too early we had to interrupt our chat as our bus was heading back to Ayacucho. Another 3.5 hours of carsick torture for me.

We arrived in Ayacucho pretty late. From the Plaza de Armas we walked past the street vendors with their jewellery and ladies selling Muyuchi. Muyuchi ice cream is a traditional Andean treat made by hand using a wooden barrel (the muyuchi). Inside, fruit juice, milk, or other flavors are poured into a metal container, which is then surrounded by ice and salt. The barrel is spun or shaken until the mixture freezes into a creamy, refreshing ice cream. It’s a simple but special technique that has been used for generations and is still a tourist highlight for the region. Millpu and also Muyuchi ice cream were recommended to us by Alexia. Göran wasn’t hungry and I was still carsick so only Jacques decided to buy one. I had a bite and it was truly very tasty!

We were back at Iván’s place around 8:15 PM and quite tired after the long bus ride. We had a simple dinner and went straight to bed.